Today I’m rushing through a Paris subway station

Today I’m rushing through a Paris subway station, trying to get to the train that will take me from the TGV I just got off to the TGV heading west to Poitiers.

Coming towards me is a beautiful young black woman, six feet tall with a glorious afro and huge sunglasses. She sees me admiring her and makes a beeline for me. I know what’s coming and intend to enjoy every microsecond of it.

Her lips purse in that inimitable French way and the question pours out of her mouth in a melodic blur. Sadly, I can’t help her find her train.

“Good god I wish I spoke French,” is the best I can do. She smiles brightly and maybe she understands what I mean. We spin away from each other and march in opposite directions forever.

I push through the narrow gate with my guitar, rush down three flights of stairs, and find myself facing the glass wall that keeps depressed French people from interrupting the train schedule.

I realize everything is brighter. Everyone’s face shines, every line and lash set out in high contrast, love pouring out of them and out of me as well, love like golden snakes that make love in the air between us, glossy and twisting with joy.

These shimmering moments happen more often as I travel. I help an old guy with his luggage and SNAP! I’m there. I sit down in a cathedral and SNAP! I’m there — the whole world lit from within like a five gram mushroom trip.

They leave me smiling and weepy. And grateful. As much as I hate everything, it’s a fact that the world and all its people are beautiful. In these moments it’s something even an old cynic like me can embrace.

So cheers to all you people out there, the ones I’ve met and the ones I’ll never meet. I look forward to bumping into the rest of you someday soon.


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I wake up in the fourth bed this week and go through the usual process of figuring out where I am and why.

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All I wanted from my trip to Paris